customizing with oliver + s: how to add piping (or trim) to a sleeve
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Today we're thrilled to have Rachel from Stitched Together sharing an elegant and straightforward method for adding piping to a sleeve. This creates a personalized touch that's perfect for customizing garments. If you're interested in learning how to apply piping to a neckline, you can find our earlier tutorial here. Thank you so much for joining us today, Rachel!
I absolutely adore incorporating piping into my sewing projects. It adds a sophisticated flair to necklines, bodices, and even faux cap sleeves. However, when it comes to sleeves, things are a bit different. Techniques used for necklines and bodices don't quite translate because sleeves are typically hemmed rather than finished with bindings, facings, or linings.
When I decided to add piping to the sleeves of this particular dress, I did what any curious sewer would do—I Googled it! Unfortunately, there wasn’t much available online, so I developed my own approach. It turned out to be incredibly easy and produced fantastic results. I thought I’d share my method here in case others are looking for the same guidance. This tutorial isn’t limited to the Hide-And-Seek pattern—it works for any dress or top and can also be adapted for other types of trim.
**Tutorial**
1. First, to prevent the piping from showing on the inside of the sleeve, you'll want to either create a hem facing or line the sleeve. I opted for a lightweight fabric that matched my main fabric to line the sleeve. Simply cut two sleeve pieces from your main fabric and two from your lining fabric using your sleeve pattern.
2. Next, you’ll attach the piping to your main fabric by basting it along the edge, ensuring the raw edges align perfectly. A quick note about seam allowances: whenever I sew piping onto something, I trim its seam allowance to match the seam allowance of the pattern. For instance, if the pattern has a 3/8-inch seam allowance, I’ll trim the piping's seam allowance accordingly. This ensures the edges line up neatly, making the process smoother and more precise. In this case, the sleeve had a 5/8-inch narrow hem, matching the piping's seam allowance exactly.
3. Once the piping is attached, fold the sleeve in half with right sides together and sew the side seam. This step encloses the raw edges of the piping. You can then trim the piping (and seam allowance, if desired) to reduce bulk. Repeat this process for the sleeve lining.
4. Turn the main sleeve fabric wrong side out and insert the lining so that the right sides are facing each other. Align the seams and notches (if applicable), then sew the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve edge, sewing as close to the piping cord as possible. I prefer using a zipper foot for this step, but a regular foot will work fine if you don’t have a zipper foot. Just make sure to sew as close to the piping cord as you can.
5. Turn the sleeve right side out and double-check that you’ve sewn close enough to the piping cord. Occasionally, I have to go back and sew a bit closer in certain areas. Once everything looks good, you can trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch if you wish.
6. Finally, turn the sleeve right side out and press it. To maintain the sleeve's shape and avoid creases, you can use a tailor’s ham. Alternatively, rolling up some fabric or a dish towel and placing it inside the sleeve works just as well for me.
And there you have it—two beautifully piped and lined sleeves!
7. Now, to attach the sleeves to the dress, instead of inserting them “in the flat†as instructed in the Hide-and-Seek pattern, you’ll need to set them “in the round.†Sew basting stitches along the tops of the shoulders to help ease them around the armhole curve. Turn the sleeves right side out and sew each one to the armhole as shown, right sides together.
Enjoy your newly piped sleeves!
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below, and don’t hesitate to visit me over at Stitched Together anytime.
Thank you for having me!
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