customizing with oliver + s: how to add piping (or trim) to a sleeve

Today we're thrilled to have Rachel from Stitched Together sharing her expertise on how to add piping to a sleeve for a personalized touch. If you're curious about adding piping to a neckline, take a look at our earlier tutorial here. Thank you so much for joining us today, Rachel! I absolutely adore incorporating piping or trim into my sewing projects. From necklines and bodices to faux cap sleeves, it adds a unique flair. However, when it comes to sleeves, the usual techniques used for necklines and bodices don’t quite work because sleeves are typically hemmed rather than finished with bindings, facings, or linings. When I decided to add piping to the sleeves of this dress, I hit the internet to find out how. Unfortunately, there wasn't a ton of information available, so I devised my own method. It turned out to be straightforward and yielded fantastic results. I thought I'd share my approach here in case anyone else was searching for guidance. This tutorial isn't just limited to this particular dress—it can be applied to any dress or top and works equally well with both piping and trim. --- To start, you'll want to ensure the piping doesn’t peek through on the inside of the sleeve. To achieve this, you can either create a hem facing for the sleeve or line it entirely. I opted for lining the sleeve with a lightweight fabric that matched the main fabric. First, cut two sleeve pieces from your main fabric and two from your lining fabric using your sleeve pattern. Next, we need to talk about seam allowances. Here's a handy tip: whenever I attach piping to anything, I trim the piping’s seam allowance to match the seam allowance of the pattern. For instance, if my pattern uses a 3/8" seam allowance, I’ll trim the piping’s seam allowance to match. This ensures that the raw edges align perfectly, making the process smooth and precise. In this case, the sleeve had a 5/8" narrow hem, which matched the piping’s seam allowance exactly. After attaching the piping, fold the sleeve in half with the right sides together and sew the side seam. This step neatly tucks away the raw edges of the piping. You can also trim the piping (and seam allowance, if desired) to reduce bulk. Do the same with the sleeve lining. With the main sleeve fabric turned wrong side out, place the lining inside it so that the right sides face each other. Match the seams and notches (if applicable), then sew the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve edge, staying as close to the piping cord as possible. A zipper foot is ideal for this step, but if you don’t have one, it can still be done with a regular foot—just make sure you sew very close to the piping cord. Once everything is stitched, turn the sleeve right side out and double-check that you've sewn close enough to the piping cord. Sometimes I have to go back and adjust a few spots to get closer to the cord. Once satisfied, you can trim the seam allowance down to 1/4" if you prefer. Turn the sleeve right side out again and press it. To maintain its shape and avoid creases, I use a tailor’s ham. Alternatively, rolling up some fabric or a dish towel and placing it inside the sleeve works just as well. Voila! Now you have two beautifully piped and lined sleeves. The next step is attaching the sleeves to the dress. Instead of inserting the sleeves “in the flat” as instructed in the Hide-and-Seek pattern, you’ll need to set them “in the round.” Sew basting stitches along the tops of the shoulders to help ease the sleeves around the armhole curve. Turn the sleeves right side out and sew them to the armholes, matching right sides together. There you have it—piped sleeves ready to elevate your garment! Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below, and feel free to drop by Stitched Together anytime. Thank you for having me! (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); --- Related Posts: • DIY Piping Techniques for Necklines • How to Create a Custom-Lined Dress • Mastering the Art of Sleeve Insertion

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